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izzymcbeth-grad502cdsii · 2 years ago

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RESEARCH: INITIAL RESEARCH

https://www.sustainyourstyle.org/en/introduction-environmental-impact

What’s wrong with the fashion industry?

INTRODUCTION ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT

The drop in garment prices over the last 20 years has allowed us to buy more and more clothes. We now have 5 times more clothes than our grandparents had. It felt great until we found out what was hiding behind this trend.

In reality, this continuous accumulation of cheap garments is only possible because of a constant reduction of production costs. This, in turn, has serious consequences on our health, our planet, and on garment workers’ lives.

FAST FASHION

Fast fashion: the monster in our closets

It has become a challenge to wear a garment more than five times. Why?

1) Garment quality is declining every year. As a result, our clothes immediately look faded, shapeless, or worn out.

2) Trends are changing so quickly that we cannot keep up. We continue to purchase just to stay up to date.

This is Fast Fashion: Mass-production of cheap, disposable clothing. Countless new collections per year make us feel constantly out of date and encourage us to keep buying more.

What can we change about it?

Find out about the available alternatives in the section "How to reduce our impact".

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTS

Fashion’s Environmental Impacts

The fashion industry is the second largest polluter in the world just after the oil industry. And the environmental damage is increasing as the industry grows.

However, there are solutions and alternatives to mitigate these problems. The first step lies in building awareness and willingness to change.

WATER POLLUTION OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY

In most of the countries in which garments are produced, untreated toxic wastewaters from textiles factories are dumped directly into the rivers.

Wastewater contains toxic substances such as lead, mercury, and arsenic, among others. These are extremely harmful to the aquatic life and the health of millions of people living by those river banks. The contamination also reaches the sea and eventually spreads around the globe.

Another major source of water contamination is the use of fertilizers for cotton production, which heavily pollutes runoff waters and evaporation waters.

What can we do about it?

Choose clothes made in countries with stricter environmental regulations for factories (EU, Canada, US...)

Choose organic fibers and natural fibers that do not require chemicals to be produced

WATER CONSUMPTION OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY

The fashion industry is a major water consumer. Huge quantity of freshwater is used for the dyeing and finishing process for all of our clothes. As reference, it can take up to 200 tons of freshwater per ton of dyed fabric.

Also, cotton needs A LOT of water to grow (and heat), but is usually cultivated in warm and dry areas. Up to 20,000 liters of water are needed to produce just 1kg of cotton. This generates tremendous pressure on this precious resource, already scarce, and has dramatic ecological consequences such as the desertification of the Aral Sea, where cotton production has entirely drained the water (see pictures above).

"85 % of the daily needs in water of the entire population of India would be covered by the water used to grow cotton in the country. 100 million people in India do not have access to drinking water." says Stephen Leahy from The Guardian.

What can we do about it?

Choose fibers with low water consumption such as linen, recycled fibers, etc

MICROFIBERS POLLUTION OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY Every time we wash a synthetic garment (polyester,nylon, etc), about 700.000 individual microfibers are released into the water, making their way into our oceans. Scientists have discovered that small aquatic organisms ingest those microfibers. These are then eaten by small fish which are later eaten by bigger fish, introducing plastic in our food chain. See more info #WhatsInyMyWash and on Stop! Micro Waste.A recent study is also showing that wearing synthetic fibers is releasing plastic microfibers into the air. According to the study one person “could release almost 300 million polyester microfibres per year to the environment by washing their clothes, and more than 900 million to the air by simply wearing the garments”.

What can we do about it?

Choose natural or semi-synthetic fibers

Wash clothes only when you need to

Wash clothes at a lower temperature (30ºC)

WASTE PROBLEM OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY

Clothing has clearly become disposable. As a result, we generate more and more textile waste. A family in the western world throws away an average of 30 kg of clothing each year. Only 15% is recycled or donated, and the rest goes directly to the landfill or is incinerated.

Synthetic fibers, such as polyester, are plastic fibers, therefore non-biodegradable and can take up to 200 years to decompose. Synthetic fibers are used in 72% of our clothing.

What can we do about it?

Choose natural or semi-synthetic fibers

Buy less, buy better quality and recycle

CHEMICALS IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY

Chemicals are one of the main components in our clothes.

They are used during fiber production, dyeing, bleaching, and wet processing of each of our garments.

The heavy use of chemicals in cotton farming is causing diseases and premature death among cotton farmers, along with massive freshwater and ocean water pollution and soil degradation.

Some of these substances are also harmful to the consumer (see section about toxicity).

What can we do about it?

Choose organic fibers

Choose sustainable brands

Always wash new clothes before using them for the first time

Look for garments with certification label controlling chemical content such as OEKO-TEX®, GOTS, or BLUESIGN®

GREENHOUSE GASES EMISSIONS OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY

The apparel industry accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions.

The global fashion industry is generating a lot of greenhouse gases due to the energy used during its production, manufacturing, and transportation of the million garments purchased each year.

Synthetic fibers (polyester, acrylic, nylon, etc.), used in the majority of our clothes, are made from fossil fuel, making production much more energy-intensive than with natural fibers.

Most of our clothes are produced in China, Bangladesh, or India, countries essentially powered by coal. This is the dirtiest type of energy in terms of carbon emissions.

Also, according to James Conca from FORBES: " Cheap synthetic fibers also emit gases like N2O, which is 300 times more damaging than CO2."

What can we do about it?

Choose natural fibers

Buy less, buy better quality, mend clothes

Buy clothes made in countries powered by more renewable energy

SOILS DEGRADATION CAUSED BY THE FASHION INDUSTRY

The soil is a fundamental element of our ecosystem. We need healthy soil for food production but also to absorb CO2. The massive, global degradation of soil is one of the main environmental issues our planet is currently facing. It presents a major threat to global food security and also contributes to global warming.

The fashion industry plays a major part in degrading soil in different ways: overgrazing of pastures through cashmere goats and sheep raised for their wool; degradation of the soil due to massive use of chemicals to grow cotton; deforestation caused by wood-based fibers like rayon.

What can we do about it?

Choose fibers friendly to the soil

RAINFOREST DESTRUCTION CAUSED BY THE FASHION INDUSTRY

Every year, thousands of hectares of endangered and ancient forests are cut down and replaced by plantations of trees used to make wood-based fabrics such as rayon, viscose, and modal.

This loss of forests is threatening the ecosystem and indigenous communities, as in Indonesia where large-scale deforestation of the rainforests has taken place over the past decade.

What can we do about it?

Choose Lyocell/Tencel® instead of rayon, modal or viscose

[...]

HOW CAN WE REDUCE OUR FASHION ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT?

BUY LESS

Even the greenest garment uses resources for production and transport to your home, creating some environmental impact.

A root of the problem lies in our excessive consumerism: we buy 10 while our grandmothers bought 2.

We tend to think that buying new clothes will make us happy. Maybe we should reconsider some foundations of our lifestyle.

BUY CLOTHES FROM SUSTAINABLE BRANDS

More and more fashion brands take into account the environmental and social impact of their production.

You can find our favorite sustainable brands in the section The Brands We Like.

We will not lie to you: the offer is still limited and it is easier and cheaper to go to the closest shopping center to refill your wardrobe. But the more we demand sustainable clothing, the more will be available- just like organic food was difficult to find 15 years ago. Today, it is available in most supermarkets.

Pricewise, yes, you will pay more for sustainable clothing than in a fast fashion shop, but now we know what lies behind those very low prices...

Nonetheless, sustainable brands will not necessarily cost more than brand-name clothing, for which we sometimes pay high prices for the image, but rarely for the quality or the sustainability.

BUY BETTER QUALITY

Because clothes have become so cheap, we no longer care as much about quality. We just buy new garments when the ones we have lose their shape or appeal.

Additionally, we have all had the experience of buying expensive clothing or pair of shoes and facing the disappointment when two month later, they already look old or have holes in them.

If we stop buying poor quality, it will push brands to improve the quality of their garments. It will also allow us to keep our clothes longer, which is good for our wallets and for the environment.

THINK TWICE BEFORE THROWING OUT YOUR CLOTHES

Don’t throw your clothes in the normal bins! Most of them consist of synthetic, non-biodegradable fiber and will just pile up in the landfill. There are other options:

Try to repair them. Sometimes with a bit of imagination, you can repair or even redesign a torn garment.

Donate your clothes to your friends, family, neighbors, or to charity.

Sell them on second-hand apps like Vinted.

Some clothes shops take back used clothes from their own brand or even from other brands.

Put them in the textile recycling bin. Textiles can be recycled to make new clothing.

BUY SECOND HAND, SWAP, & RENT CLOTHING

Instead of buying new clothing, have a look at alternative options:

Second-hand shop: It's not a new concept! You can find second-hand shops everywhere in the world. Many websites and apps also offer all kinds of second-hand options ranging from the cheapest to brand-name clothes.

Swap clothes: These types of initiatives are popping up all over the world. Participants bring clothes that are no longer wear and exchange them for clothes they will use. This is an economic and eco-friendly way to refill your wardrobe. You can also organize it among your friends.

Read more about “How to organize a clothes swap”

Rent clothes: Clothes rentals is also a growing industry. This is a great option, especially for clothes that you will not wear for a long time or often (baby or pregnancy clothes, party dresses...). Some companies also offer a monthly fee, allowing customers to constantly renew their wardrobe.

The organization of second hand, swapping and renting clothes usually takes place on a local level. Find out what is available in your neighborhood.

KEEP AN EYE ON YOUR WASHING

Washing our clothes has a significant environmental impact. The average household does almost 400 loads of laundry every year, consuming about 60,000 liters of water. It also takes a lot energy to heat the washing water and run the drying cycle. So here are some tips for reducing this impact.

OTHER MEANINGFUL INITIATIVES

Fashion Revolution / Who Made My Clothes?

The Fashion Revolution is a global movement whose mission is to unite people and organisations to work together towards radically changing the way our clothes are sourced, produced, and consumed, so that our clothing is made in a safe, clean, and fair way. They believe that collaboration across the whole value chain — from farmer to consumer — is the only way to transform the industry.

They organize the Fashion Revolution Week: the #whomademyclothes campaign in April, which falls on the anniversary of the Rana Plaza factory collapse. During this week, brands and producers are encouraged to respond with the hashtag #imadeyourclothes and to demonstrate transparency in their supply chain.

Greenpeace Detox Campaign

The Detox campaign was launched by Greenpeace in 2011 to expose the direct links between global clothing brands, their suppliers, and toxic water pollution around the world.

The organization has run investigations in manufacturing countries, along with testing brand-name garments for traces of hazardous chemicals. This has resulted in the release of groundbreaking reports, revealing to the world the toxic danger behind our clothes.

The campaign is challenging global fashion brands to champion a toxic-free future and eliminate all discharges or use of hazardous chemicals. The campaign has been able to secure public commitments from nineteen international fashion companies such as Nike, Adidas, Puma, H&M, M&S...

Clean Clothes Campaign

Clean Clothes Campaign is an international alliance dedicated to improving working conditions and empowering workers in the global garment and sportswear industries.

CCC pushes companies and governments to take responsibility and ensure that workers' rights are respected and implemented; raises awareness and mobilizes people to get involved; takes action on concrete cases of violations of the rights of workers and activists; explores judicial mechanisms and lobbies for legislation to protect workers’ rights and hold companies accountable.

Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC)

The ZDHC Foundation's mission is to advance towards zero discharge of hazardous chemicals in the textile, leather, and footwear value chain, with the goal of improving the environment and people's wellbeing. Their vision is to widely implement sustainable chemistry and best practices.

The ZDHC Programme already can count 70 collaborating companies.

The Film: The True Cost

The True Cost is a brilliant documentary about the clothes we wear, the people who make them, and the impact the industry is having on our world.

Filmed in countries all over the world, from the brightest runways to the darkest slums, the True Cost has open the eyes of so many people already, it is definitely a must-see!

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)

GOTS is a leading textile standard for organic fibers, including ecological and social criteria.

The standard has defined requirements that ensure the organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials to environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labelling, in order to provide assurance to the end consumer. The standard covers the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, trading, and distribution of all textiles made from natural fibers.

The standard is subdivided into two label-grades: Label-grade 1: Organic (≥ 95% organic fibres); Label-grade 2: made with X% organic (≥ 70% organic fibres).

We mainly find the GOTS certification on organic cotton, but other natural fibers such as linen or wool can also be certified.

Fair Wear Foundation

Fair Wear Foundation works with brands, factories, trade unions, NGOs, and sometimes governments to verify and improve workplace conditions in the clothing industry. FWF look for multi-faceted solutions together with brands to improve poor labor conditions step by step.

More than 80 companies are FWF members.

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